Sænautasel highland farm
Sænautasel on Jökuldalsheiði is a unique location by the tranquil mountain lake, Sænautavatn. Sænautasel is an old highland farmstead that was rebuilt in 1992 and has been welcoming visitors during the summer since then. At Sænautasel, you can learn about the conditions and struggles of those who lived in the highlands. Guided tours are offered around the farm, sharing stories about the people and farming practices at the highland farmsteads that were inhabited well into the 20th century. Light refreshments are available in a traditional style. It is open every day in June-August.
To reach Sænautasel, you can drive from Highway 1 north of Skjöldólfsstaðir onto Möðrudalsvegur (Road 901) and then, after a short drive, turn onto Brúarvegur (Road 907). Alternatively, you can drive from Brú on Jökuldalur via Brúarvegur (Road 907) north to Sænautasel. From Sænautasel, it is a short distance to the magnificent natural rock formations Skessugarður slightly west on Jökuldalsheiði, and also close to Stuðlagil on Jökuldalur.
Settlement in Jökuldalsheiði began in the mid-19th century. The settlements in the highlands were partly built on the ruins of ancient farms and sheepfolds. The highlands are exceptionally beautiful in summer, making it hard to imagine how it was to live there year-round, including the harsh winters. The first farmstead built in the highlands during this period was Háreksstaðir in 1841. Over the next two decades, a total of 16 farmsteads were established in Jökuldalsheiði, the last one in 1862. The quality of the highland farms varied, and their periods of occupancy ranged from a single year at some to nearly a whole century at Sænautasel. The reasons for establishing these highland farms included overcrowding in the lowlands where all farms were occupied, and the development of urban areas and employment opportunities by the sea was still minimal. Therefore, people had few alternatives other than being laborers or tenants.
The farming conditions in the highlands were not entirely bad, although most places had heavy snow, as most farms were over 500 meters above sea level. Resources such as trout fishing in lakes, hunting for ptarmigan, geese, ducks, and swans, and grass harvesting were significant supplements. Some areas had excellent hayfields, at least in good years. Reindeer roamed the area, though their population was at a historical low around the turn of the 20th century. About 120 people lived in the highlands simultaneously at its peak. The eruption of Askja in 1875 greatly affected the highland settlements, causing a temporary abandonment of all farms except the northernmost ones. Many who left eventually emigrated to America. A few years later, some farms were reoccupied, and the settlement continued into the early decades of the 20th century. The last farm was abandoned in 1946.
Sænautasel was first established in 1843 and was inhabited until 1943, except for five years after the Askja eruption. It was the longest-inhabited farm in the highlands, occupied for a total of 95 years. Farming in the highlands under difficult conditions and great isolation has inspired Icelandic writers. Many fans of Halldór Kiljan Laxness know the story of Bjartur of Summerhouses in the novel *Independent People*. It describes the struggle of an independent crofter in a remote highland area. Many believe the story's inspiration came from Sænautasel, as Halldór stayed there in the 1920s. Highland farming was also a subject for writers Gunnar Gunnarsson and Jón Trausti.
Old legends said that sea cattle had been seen in Sænautavatn and even suggested that there were underwater tunnels from the lake to the sea that the sea cattle used.
