Vopnafjörður - Culture and history

In Hofsárdalur in Vopnafjörður you will find the old family farm Bustarfell, a quaint, centuries old Icelandic turf house with red gables and a grass-grown roof which is now a museum. Bustarfell is one of the oldest and best preserved turf houses in Iceland. In 1532, the farm was bought by Árni Brandsson and his wife Úlfheiður and has been owned by their descendants ever since.  A visit to the museum at Bustarfell is a journey through the history of farming in Iceland and changes in lifestyle from the beginning of the 18th century to the mid-20th century. When walking through the museum, you feel as if the inhabitants have only just left the house. Three kitchens from different eras are showcased, as well as other artifacts from around the farm which show how technology has developed.    Hjáleigan Café is located next to the museum, and a hiking path leads to the rock Álfkonusteinn, source of a local folktale.  Opening hours: 10-17 every day from June 1st to August 31st.

Vopnfjarðarkirkja church was built in 1903 and is now a historic building. Until that year, there was no church in the village, but there were churches at Refstaður and Hof (both in Hofsárdalur valley).  The altarpiece in Vopnafjarðarkirkja was painted by Jóhannes Kjarval and is called „Savior talks to the people.“ When bishop Jón Helgason visited the church he is supposed to have said that the people in the painting look like demons in hell. However, he supposedly added that they seemed to be listening closely to Christ nevertheless. 

Kolbeinstangaviti Lighthouse is just under 20 meters tall and stands in a magnificent location in Leiðarhöfn, Vopnafjörður. The lighthouse was built in 1942 but was not put into use until two years later when the lighting equipment finally arrived from England. The lighthouse is coated with light quartz, and the dark surfaces are covered with obsidian gravel. Kolbeinstangaviti is the only lighthouse that has retained this appearance, meaning it has not been brushed with any sealant. There is a beautiful and easy walking path from the village along the gravel road to Leiðarhöfn and the lighthouse. The path offers a lovely view over the village and the fjord. An old mining road branching off the main road to Leiðarhöfn also makes for an enjoyable walk out to Kolbeinstangi.  The peninsula's tip offers stunning scenery ideal for outdoor activities and very popular among locals.

Above the farm Bustarfell in Vopnafjörður stands a large rock called Álfkonusteinn (Elf Stone). It is relatively easy to walk from Bustarfell to the rock, and an interesting legend related to the stone. It claims that a district magistrate’s wife at Bustarfell was once led in her dreams by an elf into the stone. There she came to the aid of an elf-woman in childbirth, who paid for the assistance with a beautiful gold-plated cloth. The cloth is neatly made, exotic and unique in this country, and is now owned by the National Museum of Iceland.

Fuglabjarganes is on the north side of Vopnafjörður’s coastline.  It is on Iceland’s nature conservatory list for its beautiful and diverse coast and abundant birdlife, making it a haven for nature enthusiasts and birdwatchers.  The hike begins near Road 913 and follows a 6 km circular footpath that takes you along the beach to the headland, where high buffs descend into the sea. Along the way, you'll see rock pillars rising from the ocean and enjoy panoramic views across the open sea. The terrain includes narrow sheep paths, grassy areas and small river crossings, which may be a little wet after rain.  This trail is best enjoyed from April to October when conditions are most favourable. Please exercise caution near the cliff and do not go too close the cliff edge. 

The Hof vicarage has always been a major factor in the history of Vopnafjörður. It was home to some of the major characters of Vopnfirðinga Saga and they controlled one of two chieftainships in Vopnafjörður in the 10th century. The only ordained priest also serving as chief, ruled from Hof in the 12th century. A monument to the Vopnfirðinga Saga stands by the driveway to Hof.  It is believed that the first church at Hof was built shortly after the adoption of Christianity. The church currently in use was built in 1901, taking over from a turf church from medieval times. The church stands in Hofskirkjugarður cemetery, a beautiful garden offering pleasant views of Hofsárdalur valley. 

A hiking trail leads from the parking lot by Gljúfursárfoss through Drangsnes, to Krummsholt. At Krummsholt you can see ancient ruins dating back to Viking age. In fact, a Viking named Þorsteinn Uxafótur is said to have lived there. Looking at such ancient habitats leaves one wondering about the lives lived here centuries ago, wishing the earth could talk and tell us the stories of our ancestors. Walking along the precipitous cliffs is a great experience and leaves few visitors unmoved.  

An archeological dig in 2006 revealed ruins from the time of Vopnfirðingasaga, not far from the present church at Hof. The saga is believed to have been written in the 13th century, taking place in 960-990. One of the main characters in Vopnfirðingasaga is Helgi Þorgilsson, whose nickname was Brodd-Helgi. He was raised at Hof and later became farmer and chieftain at Hof. As a young boy, Helgi fastened a piece of iron to a bull's head so it would win a struggle with another bull, and that is the source of Helgi's nickname. When still a teenager, Brodd-Helgi stepped in on the fight between the farmers Svartur and Skíði and judged Svartur guilty. Svartur fled up on Smjörvatnsheiði and Brodd-Helgi followed him and attacked him armed with shield and a flat stone which he had fastened in his breeches below the shield. He killed Svartur and was famous for this deed. Brodd-Helgi and Geitir from Krossavík were great friends since childhood. Brodd-Helgi married Geitir's sister, Halla, and their son Bjarni Brodd-Helgason was fostered at Krossavík. Their involvement in the fate and property of Hrafn Austmann, who spent the winter at Krossavík and disappeared at the winter games at Hagi, led to the cooling of their friendship. Brodd-Helgi divorced Halla, Geitir's sister, and married Þorgerður "silver" from Fljótsdalur. The disagreements of these former friends ended in full-blown enmity. The representatives of Geitir and Brodd-Helgi also disagreed and all worked toward the end of their friendship. Brodd-Helgi's unpopularity increased and was finally more than the farmers could bear. Geitir is said to have killed Brodd-Helgi at Sunnudalur. At the instigation of Þorgerður, Bjarni killed his foster-father and uncle, Geitir. But the saga was not over. Þorkell, Geitir's son, took his father's chieftainship and Bjarni Brodd-Helgason was chieftain at Hof. They had grown up together at Krossavík and were first cousins. Bjarni tried to make peace with Þorkell but failed, and Þorkell failed three times to avenge his father's death. The final battle was on a field at Eyvindarstaðir. Bjarni was victorious, later made peace with Þorkell and invited him to live at Hof as long as he lived. Thirty years of vengeance was over.

Be sure to visit Skjólfjörur beach when driving through Vopnafjordur! The beach is only a short walk from the road and offers a magnificent view of the open Atlantic sea. If you’re lucky you might even see a whale. The beach has a rocky shore, with colorful stones that capture the eye. Driftwood which the waves have brought to land is a testament to the incredible force the sea possesses. Please respect that it is forbidden to remove stones from the beach.  One characteristics of Vopnafjordur is the incredible rock pillars and cliffs that take on various forms, often resembling different creatures. Ljósastapi rock pillar stands out in the sea just off Skjólfjörur. It is often called “Fíllinn” (the Elephant by locals), as its form resembles an elephant. It is a vera photogenic place! To the right of Ljósastapi, the mountain Búrið stands out from the mountain range. Búrið is a part of the Fagradalur mountains, an ancient volcanic area. In the Fagradalur mountains, you can see colorful rhyolite rocks that certainly make their mark on the surrounding environment. A marked walking path takes you down to Múlahöfn harbour and to Þerribjarg cliffs, east of Hellisheiði Eystri, where the rhyolite is at its most beautiful.

Virkisvík cove is a beautiful place with colourful sediments, basalt formations and a waterfall that cascades over precipitous cliffs into the sea.  The oldest known rock formations, above the sea, in Iceland are in Austurland and Westfjords. They are about 15-16 million years old, from the Miocene Tertiary era.  The layers from that epoch are formed of lava flows with occasional sediment layers in between. Such layers, in thicker form, have long been research subjects, since they often include plant or animal remains which hold information about the climate when the layers formed. Two thick sediment layers can be found in Vopnafjörður. One in Virkisvík and the other at Bustarfell mountain.