Stuðlagil
Stuðlagil boasts one of the largest and most beautiful basalt column formations in the country, making it exceptionally picturesque. The gorge remained relatively unknown until the Kárahnjúkar Hydropower Plant came into operation and the Hálslón reservoir was created, significantly reducing the water volume in the Jökulsá á Dal and making the gorge more visible and accessible. The gorge's value lies primarily in its beautifully shaped and varied basalt column formations and their interaction with the deep blue-green colour of the river's water. However, the water turns grey-brown during reservoir overflows and melting periods. The gorge and the river are nevertheless always magnificent to behold.
Stuðlagil is located in the upper Jökuldalur valley in Jökulsá á Dal, also known as Jökulsá á Brú or Jökla. It is situated near the farm Grund on the north bank of the river and a bit above the farm Klaustursel on the opposite bank. The gorge is just below the confluence of Jökulsá and Eyvindará rivers, where a basalt dike cuts through the Jökulsá riverbed, and it is believed that an intrusive layer from this dike forms Stuðlagil. The gorge has basalt column walls on both sides of the river over a 300-meter stretch, with columns up to 30 meters high. In some places, the columns are vertically regular, while in others, they are irregularly curved. Just below Stuðlagil, there is another basalt column formation at the tributary Fossá, which flows off a columnar basalt layer and forms the waterfall Stuðlafoss. Basalt columns form when lava cools after it has solidified. Basalt magma fully solidifies at around 1000°C, but as it continues to cool, it contracts and splits into columns, often hexagonal in shape. The columns always stand perpendicular to the cooling surface, so they are vertical in lava layers and intrusions, horizontal in dikes, and radiate from the centre in pillow lavas.
The Jökulsá river originates in the Brúarjökull glacier and is the longest river in East Iceland, about 150 km long with a large catchment area. The river has carved some of the most rugged and deepest gorges in the country, including Hafrahvammagljúfur and Dimmugljúfur below Kárahnjúkar. The gorges continue more or less down the entire Jökuldalur valley, although the largest ones are in the highlands. Jökla was considered the murkiest river in the country, carrying a massive amount of clay, sand, and gravel before being dammed at Kárahnjúkar, with some of that material now settling in the reservoir.
Since the water from Jökla began flowing into the reservoir in 2006, most of the glacial water from the river now travels through tunnels to Fljótsdalur and reaches the sea via Lagarfljót. Below the Kárahnjúkar dam, the river is now almost a clear spring-fed river for most of the year but can turn into a raging glacial river when the reservoir overflows. During the summer and much of the winter, the river water in Stuðlagil is noticeably blue-green. It is possible that a slight mix of glacial water with the spring water affects the water colour in Stuðlagil, but this has not been studied. Generally, the color of water is primarily determined by how light scatters from molecules and particles in the water. During spring melt and when the reservoir overflows, the water turns grey-brown. Overflows typically occur from early August to October but can happen at other times. Reservoir water levels can be monitored online.
Historically, Jökulsá was a significant obstacle due to its water volume, strong currents, and murkiness. It was rarely fordable, seldom navigable by horse, and ferry crossings were difficult and unreliable. The first man-made bridge with reliable historical documentation was funded by the Germans in the mid-16th century at Brúarás. Since then, the bridge has been rebuilt there or nearby, with the first concrete bridge constructed in 1931. At Klaustursel, an iron bridge was built in 1908, which still stands and was used for vehicle traffic until recently. Cable cars were long used to cross the river, with many locations employing them well into the 20th century. Cable cars were placed where the river ran through narrow gorges, with cables or wires strung between the banks and secured to cairns or later concrete pillars on either side of the gorge. A wooden box pulled by hand travelled on wheels along the cables from bank to bank. The cable car at the farm Merki was in use the longest, until 1975 when the river was bridged there.
The gorge can be viewed from both banks.
Stuðlagil observation platforms
Driving north on Highway 1 from Egilsstaðir, leading you through Jökuldalur, take the exit down route 923, just beyond Skjöldólfsstaðir. From there, it is about a 19 km drive on a gravel road to the farm Grund which stands on the northern side of Stuðlagil canyon.
Upon arrival, you'll find convenient parking and restroom facilities. From there, you’ll have safe and well-marked access to a series of observation platforms thoughtfully positioned throughout the area. These platforms offer breathtaking views from the canyon rim as well as from various points along the trails that wind down to the canyon floor. Whether you choose to take in the sweeping panoramas from above or explore the scenic paths that descend through the rock formations, you'll be treated to a variety of unique perspectives that highlight the natural beauty and dramatic scale of the canyon. With safety rails and maintained trails, it's an experience designed to be both awe-inspiring and accessible, just a short walk from the parking lot.
Hiking Route from Klaustursel
From the Ring Road (Route 1) in Jökuldalur, turn onto Route 923 and turn onto a side road towards the farm Klaustursel. There are parking lots in two places: one near the bridge over Jökla, from which it is about 5 km to Stuðlagil (10 km round trip). You can also drive further to a parking lot near Stuðlafoss. From there, it is 2.5 km to Stuðlagil (5 km round trip). Near the parking lot is Stuðlafoss waterfall in Fossá, which flows over a columnar basalt layer, creating a beautiful setting where the columns look like steps to the waterfall, and moss adds to the colourfulness. You can descend into the gorge, but it can be slippery, especially in winter, so caution is necesary near the edge of the gorge. It might be tempting to venture into the beautiful blue-green water, but although the water seems harmless, a deceptive undertow can suddenly take control, and from the pool in the gorge, the river then flows into a strong and dangerous current. Moreover, the water is icy cold.
The nature around Stuðlagil is delicate, and visitors are especially encouraged to show respect for the area, its wildlife, vegetation, and geological formations and to behave responsibly. From late April to June, many pink-footed geese and other birds nest in the area, and it's particularly important to stay on marked paths to avoid disturbing the birds. The upper Jökuldalur valley is an agricultural area, and in the autumn, farmers drive their sheep down from the mountains, which is an impressive sight.
During the summer, you can continue driving on Route 923 into the highlands and follow the route Highland Cirle which leads to Kárahnjúkar, Laugafell, and down to Fljótsdalur. Part of the route is only accessible to well-equipped, four-wheel-drive vehicles. You can also take a shorter loop via Jökuldalsheiði by continuing on Route 923 and then Brúarvegur (Route 907) through Jökuldalsheiði with its beautiful mountain lakes, ponds, and rich history, then on to Route 901 (Möðrudalsleið) back to the Ring Road. Along this route is Sænautasel, a rebuilt highland farm worth visiting, and a little further west on Jökuldalsheiði is Skessugarðurinn, a giant natural structure. Traveling along the Ring Road in Jökuldalur, it's also worth stopping at Rjúkandi, which cascades in a majestic waterfall staircase from the heath edge down to the road.